Reading the Details of Quality: How to Decode Furniture Labels and Materials
We’ve all been there: standing in the furniture store or scrolling late at night, one finger hovering over “Add to Cart,” wondering Is this the real deal… or will it disintegrate the second I sit on it?
The truth is, you don’t need a design degree (or a billionaire’s budget) to buy quality furniture. You just need to know how to read the fine print — literally. Labels, construction details, and materials are your cheat sheet for spotting what’s worth your money, and what’s cleverly disguised particleboard pretending to be heirloom-worthy.
Here’s your no-nonsense guide to becoming your own furniture quality inspector.
Image Credit: Marino Cigüenza
1. Understand the Magic Words
Solid wood — Good. It means it’s carved from whole lumber pieces. Expect character, durability, and a heavier weight.
Veneer — Not automatically bad! Veneer is a thin layer of quality wood glued over a cheaper core (often MDF or plywood). Well-done veneer is stable and allows for beautiful grains without the cost or warping risk of solid slabs.
MDF/Particleboard — Budget-friendly and fine for low-impact pieces. My kitchen cupboards are MDF and I'll say, 8 years in, they don't look too bad. But don’t expect it to survive 20+ years or toddlers/teenagers.
Kiln-dried hardwood — This is the gold standard for structural parts (like table legs and chair frames). Kiln-drying removes moisture, preventing future warping and cracking.
2. Check the Joinery
If you can peek inside a drawer or under a table, do it. Quality furniture is all about how it’s joined.
Dovetail joints (as shown, the interlocking puzzle shapes on drawer corners) = sign of care and durability.
Mortise-and-tenon joints (a classic wood peg fitting into a slot) = centuries-old, still unbeatable.
Screws and dowels are decent but not premium.
Glue and staples only? Run. Or at least haggle.
3. Read Upholstery Tags Like a Detective
For sofas, chairs, and cushions:
Look for words like 8-way hand-tied springs — this means real craftsmanship and long-lasting bounce.
Foam density matters. Higher numbers mean firmer, longer-lasting cushions. (1.8 lbs/cu.ft is standard; higher is better.)
Natural fillings (down, feathers) feel plush but need fluffing; synthetics keep their shape but may feel stiffer.
4. Spot Real Metal vs. Metal-Look
Brass, bronze, iron — timeless. Solid metal hardware feels cool and weighty. If it feels suspiciously light or plasticky, it’s probably a coated substitute.
Tip: Bring a tiny magnet. If it sticks, it’s likely steel or iron; if not, it might be aluminum or a non-ferrous real brass. (Nerdy but satisfying.)
5. Look for Certifications (They’re Not Just Marketing Hype)
When buying new furniture, especially upholstery or kids’ furniture, check for certifications:
FSC-certified wood means it was sourced responsibly.
Greenguard or CertiPUR-US means lower chemical emissions and safer foams.
image credit: Pinterest
6. Don’t Be Fooled by Fancy Descriptions
“Engineered wood,” “composite core,” “wood-like finish” — these can be code for pressed sawdust with a printed sticker on top. If that’s fine for your purpose, great! But don’t pay antique prices for knockoff construction.
7. Ask for the Details — A Good Seller Will Tell You
If a retailer can’t answer what wood it’s made of, where it was built, or how the joints are constructed… consider it a red flag. Good makers love to share these details — it’s their badge of honour.
Final Takeaway
Quality furniture isn’t about spending the most — it’s about knowing what you’re getting for your money. Read labels, tap on surfaces, peek under cushions, and don’t be afraid to ask nosey questions. Your future self (and your living room) will thank you when your furniture still looks gorgeous decades from now...
Which brings me to this: if you'd rather skip the guesswork and invest in something timeless, choose vintage. If it's lasted 30 years already, chances are it'll breeze through the next 30 with style to spare.
-Juliette